What a car jack does and why you need the right one
A car jack lifts one corner of your vehicle high enough to remove the wheel. It does this by converting a small amount of force—your pumping or turning—into enough lifting power to raise 500 to 1,500 pounds, depending on your car's weight and the jack's capacity. Without a jack, you cannot remove a tire at all.
The jack that came with your car is sized for that specific vehicle. A scissor jack (the diamond-shaped one you crank with a handle) or a bottle jack (the short cylinder you pump up and down) will lift your car, but only if it matches your car's weight rating. Using a jack rated for a lighter vehicle, or using one that is damaged, can cause the car to slip or collapse while you are working underneath it. That is a serious injury risk.
Before you start, locate your jack and the jack point on your car. The jack point is a reinforced spot on the frame, usually marked by a small notch or raised area on the rocker panel (the side of the car between the front and rear wheels). Your owner's manual shows exactly where it is. Never place the jack under the plastic trim, the door, or the bumper—it will slip or break.
Key Takeaways
- Always use the jack that came with your car or one rated for your vehicle's weight, and place it only on the reinforced jack point shown in your owner's manual.
- Park on level, solid ground away from traffic, turn on hazard lights, and loosen the lug nuts before you lift the car.
- Raise the car only high enough to remove the wheel, and never crawl under a car supported only by a jack—use jack stands or wheel chocks for safety.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star or cross pattern to may support even pressure, and lower the car fully before driving.
Setting up safely before you lift
Where you change the tire matters as much as how. Park on level ground—a driveway, parking lot, or wide shoulder—not on a slope or soft ground like gravel or grass. Soft ground can shift under the jack and let the car drop. If you are on a road, turn on your hazard lights and stay as far from traffic as possible.
Turn off the engine and engage the parking brake. If you have a manual transmission, leave it in gear. If you have an automatic, put it in Park. This keeps the car from rolling while you work. Loosen the lug nuts (the bolts that hold the wheel on) by a quarter turn while the car is still on the ground. The wheel will not spin freely when the car is down, so you have leverage. Once the car is lifted, the wheel will spin and you cannot loosen the nuts.
Place wheel chocks—wooden blocks or wedges—behind the wheels that will stay on the ground. If you do not have chocks, use bricks, rocks, or a piece of wood. This is your backup if the jack fails. It will not stop a 3,000-pound car, but it can slow it down enough to keep you from being pinned.
Lifting the car with the jack
Position the jack directly under the jack point. Look at where the notch or reinforced area is on the rocker panel, and line up the jack's lifting pad with that spot. If the jack is even an inch off, it will slip when you start lifting. For a scissor jack, insert the handle and crank slowly and steadily. For a bottle jack, pump the handle up and down with controlled pressure. Do not jerk or rush.
Lift the car only until the tire clears the ground by 6 to 12 inches. You do not need to lift it higher. The higher you lift, the less stable the car becomes, and the more likely the jack is to slip. Stop lifting and check that the car is level and the jack is still centered under the jack point. If anything looks wrong, lower the car and start over.
Once the car is lifted, place a jack stand under the frame near the jack point. Lower the car onto the jack stand so that the stand, not the jack, is holding the weight. The jack is now just a backup. This is the single most important safety step. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. Jacks fail. Jack stands do not.
Removing and installing the wheel
Now that the car is safely supported, finish loosening the lug nuts by hand and remove them completely. Keep them in a cup or container so you do not lose them on the ground. Grip the wheel with both hands and pull it straight toward you. It may stick slightly if rust has formed between the wheel and the hub; rock it gently side to side to break the seal, then pull again.
Set the old wheel aside. Line up the holes on the new or repaired wheel with the studs (the bolts sticking out from the hub) and push the wheel straight on. It should slide on smoothly. If it does not, the holes are not aligned; remove it and try again rather than forcing it. Once the wheel is on, thread the lug nuts by hand and tighten them snugly, but do not use full force yet.
Tighten the lug nuts in a star or cross pattern: if you imagine the wheel as a clock face, tighten 12, then 6, then 3, then 9, then back to 12. This ensures even pressure all the way around and prevents the wheel from sitting crooked. Use a lug wrench or socket wrench, and tighten each nut until it is snug and the wheel does not move. You will tighten them again after the car is lowered.
Lowering the car and final checks
Raise the car slightly with the jack to take the weight off the jack stand. Remove the jack stand and lower the car slowly to the ground. Once all four wheels are on the ground and the car is fully resting on its own suspension, tighten the lug nuts again in the same star pattern. They may have loosened slightly as the wheel settled, and this final tightening ensures they stay tight while you drive.
Spin the wheel by hand to make sure it rotates freely and does not rub. If it does rub, stop and check that the wheel is seated properly on the hub. Drive slowly for the first few miles and listen for any unusual noise or vibration. If something feels wrong, pull over safely and check the lug nuts again.
After 50 miles of driving, stop and check the lug nuts one more time with a wrench. They can loosen slightly as the wheel settles into normal use. This is especially important on new tires or after a repair. After that, they should stay tight until the next tire service.
Common mistakes that cause problems
The most dangerous mistake is working under a car supported only by a jack. A jack is a lifting tool, not a support tool. It can fail from wear, from being placed slightly off-center, or from the ground shifting. A jack stand is cheap and takes 10 seconds to position. Use it every time.
The second most common mistake is not loosening the lug nuts before lifting the car. Once the wheel is off the ground, you cannot explore enough force to break them loose without the wheel spinning. You will be stuck. Always loosen them while the car is down.
Tightening lug nuts unevenly—in a circle instead of a star pattern—can cause the wheel to sit crooked and vibrate. It can also warp the brake rotor if the pressure is uneven. The star pattern takes 30 seconds and prevents this entirely.
Using the wrong jack is also dangerous. A jack rated for a 2,000-pound car will not safely lift a 4,000-pound truck. Check your owner's manual for the correct jack capacity, and if you buy a new jack, match that rating exactly.
When to call a professional instead
If the lug nuts are stuck and will not loosen by hand, do not force them. Forcing can strip the studs or break the wrench. Spray the nuts with penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) and wait 15 minutes, then try again. If they still will not move, take the car to a shop. They have power tools and experience removing stuck fasteners without damage.
If the jack point is damaged, rusted through, or the jack itself is bent or leaking fluid, do not use it. A damaged jack will not lift safely. Take the car to a shop or call roadside information. If you are on the road and cannot safely change the tire, that is what roadside information is for. There is no shame in calling for help.
If you are not confident in any step—if the car feels unstable, if something does not fit, if you are unsure where the jack point is—stop and get help. A tire change takes 20 minutes when everything goes smoothly. It is not worth injuring yourself to save time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a floor jack instead of the scissor jack that came with my car?
Yes, if the floor jack is rated for your car's weight. A floor jack is often easier to use than a scissor jack and lifts faster. Always use a jack stand with a floor jack, just as you would with a scissor jack. Never rely on the floor jack alone to hold the car.
What if I cannot find the jack point on my car?
Check your owner's manual first—it has a diagram showing the exact location. If you do not have the manual, search online for your car's year, make, and model plus "jack point." You can also call your car's dealership and ask. Do not guess or use a different spot; the jack point is reinforced specifically to handle the weight.
Do I need to tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench?
A torque wrench ensures the nuts are tightened to the exact specification for your car, which is ideal. However, hand-tightening in a star pattern is safe for most drivers. If you hand-tighten, make the nuts snug enough that you cannot turn them further without significant effort, then check them again after 50 miles of driving.
What should I do if the car slips off the jack while I am changing the tire?
Move away from the car when ready and do not try to catch it or crawl under it. Once you are clear, assess the damage. If the car has settled back onto the ground, check for injuries and damage to the car, then call roadside information or a tow truck. If anyone is injured, call emergency services first.
Can I change a tire on a hill or slope?
No. Always find level ground. If you are on a road and cannot find level ground nearby, call roadside information. Changing a tire on a slope greatly increases the risk that the jack will slip or the car will roll. It is not worth the risk.