What you need to know before starting

A front wheel bearing on a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek is a sealed unit that sits inside the wheel hub. When it fails, you'll hear a grinding or humming noise that gets louder when you turn or accelerate. Replacing it requires removing the wheel, brake components, and the hub itself — not a job for someone without mechanical experience, but straightforward enough for a home mechanic with basic tools.

The job takes three to five hours per side. You'll need a socket set, a hub puller (or access to one), a torque wrench, and jack stands. Both front bearings are the same part, so if one is failing, the other is likely close behind. Many shops replace both sides at once to avoid a second labor charge in six months.

The 2013 Crosstrek uses a pressed bearing that cannot be repacked or adjusted — it's a sealed cartridge that comes as one unit with the hub. Once it's worn, replacement is the only fix.

Key Takeaways

  • A failing front wheel bearing makes a grinding or humming noise that worsens during turns and acceleration, and the wheel hub assembly must be removed to replace it.
  • You will need a hub puller, jack stands, a socket set, and a torque wrench rated to at least 145 foot-pounds to do this job safely at home.
  • The job takes three to five hours per side and involves removing the wheel, brake caliper, rotor, and the entire hub assembly before pressing out the old bearing.
  • Both front bearings are identical parts, and replacing both sides at once saves labor costs if the second bearing fails within months.
  • If you do not have a hub puller or press, a shop will charge between $300 and $600 per side including parts and labor.

Symptoms that your front wheel bearing is failing

A grinding or humming noise from the wheel area is the clearest sign. The noise gets louder when you turn the steering wheel toward that side, because turning puts more weight on the outer bearing. It also gets louder at highway speeds and may disappear at very low speeds.

Some drivers notice the steering wheel vibrating slightly, or feel a pulsing in the brake pedal even though the brakes are fine. If the bearing is very worn, the wheel may develop play — you can grab the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and feel it move slightly side to side. Do not drive long distances with a failed bearing; the wheel can lock up or seize.

To confirm the bearing is the problem, have someone listen near the wheel while you drive slowly in a parking lot, or have a shop put the vehicle on a lift and spin the wheel by hand while listening. A bad bearing will make noise even when the engine is off.

Tools and parts you will need

The replacement bearing for a 2013 Crosstrek front wheel is a sealed hub assembly. Subaru part number 28373FG000 is the driver's side and 28374FG000 is the passenger's side. Aftermarket versions from companies like Timken or SKF run $80 to $150 each. OEM Subaru parts run $120 to $180.

You will also need a hub puller — a three-jaw puller that bolts to the hub to pull it off the axle shaft. A basic one costs $30 to $50 at an auto parts store or online. If you do not want to buy one, many shops will loan or rent one for $10 to $20.

Other tools required: a socket set (metric, 8mm to 19mm), a torque wrench, jack stands, a floor jack, a breaker bar for stuck bolts, and a rubber mallet. You will also need new axle nut lock washers — these are one-time-use and cost a few dollars. Have brake cleaner and a wire brush on hand to clean the hub before reassembly.

Step-by-step removal and replacement

Step 1: Lift and find the vehicle. Loosen the wheel nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then lift the front end with a floor jack. Place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides and lower the vehicle onto them. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Remove the wheel and brake components. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel. Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the steering knuckle (usually 17mm or 19mm). Hang the caliper from the frame with a wire or bungee cord — do not let it hang by the brake line. Remove the rotor by pulling it straight off the hub. If it is stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.

Step 3: Remove the axle nut and hub assembly. You will see a large nut on the center of the hub where the axle shaft goes through. This is the axle nut, usually 32mm. It may have a cotter pin or lock washer. Remove the cotter pin if present, then use a breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. Once loose, remove it by hand and set aside the lock washer. You will replace this lock washer with a new one during reassembly.

Step 4: Disconnect the hub from the steering knuckle. The hub is bolted to the steering knuckle with four bolts, usually 17mm. Remove all four. You may also need to disconnect the wheel speed sensor — it is a single bolt on the back of the knuckle. Once the bolts are out, the hub should pull away from the knuckle. If it is stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.

Step 5: Pull the hub off the axle shaft. The hub is still on the axle shaft. Use the hub puller: bolt it to the hub using the wheel bolt holes, then turn the center screw to pull the hub off the shaft. This takes steady pressure — do not force it or you may damage the axle shaft. Once the hub is off, set it aside.

Step 6: Press out the old bearing and install the new one. This is where most home mechanics stop and take the hub to a shop. The bearing is pressed into the hub with a hydraulic press. A shop will charge $50 to $100 to do this. If you have access to a press, support the hub in the press and press the old bearing out, then press the new one in. The bearing must go in straight and fully seated.

Step 7: Reinstall the hub and axle nut. Slide the hub back onto the axle shaft. Reinstall the four bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle and torque them to 65 foot-pounds. Reconnect the wheel speed sensor if you disconnected it. Install a new lock washer on the axle shaft, then thread the axle nut on by hand. Torque the axle nut to 145 foot-pounds using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Reassemble the brakes and wheel. Reinstall the rotor, then reinstall the brake caliper and torque the caliper bolts to 65 foot-pounds. Reinstall the wheel and torque the wheel nuts to 65 foot-pounds in a star pattern (top, bottom, left, right, then the remaining four). Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts again after driving a few miles.

When to take it to a shop instead

If you do not have a hub puller or access to a hydraulic press, a shop is the practical choice. The hub puller alone is not expensive, but the press is something most home garages do not have. A shop will have both and can do the job in two to three hours.

Labor costs vary by region and shop, but expect $200 to $400 per side. Parts (the bearing) run $100 to $180. Total cost per side is usually $300 to $600. If both bearings are failing, many shops will discount the second side slightly because the setup is already done.

Some independent shops will let you supply your own parts to save money, though they may charge a small fee for using outside parts. Call ahead and ask. Dealerships typically will not do this and will charge more overall — $400 to $700 per side is common at a Subaru dealer.

What to do after replacement

After you reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle, drive slowly in a parking lot for a few minutes to make sure everything feels normal. The steering should be smooth, and you should not hear any grinding or humming. If you do, stop and check that all bolts are tight and the axle nut is torqued correctly.

Take the vehicle on a short highway drive to confirm the noise is gone. If it is, you are done. If the noise persists, the bearing may not have been pressed in correctly, or the wrong bearing was installed. Return to the shop or have them check the work.

There is no maintenance required on a sealed bearing. It will last until it fails again, which is usually 80,000 to 150,000 miles depending on driving conditions and road salt exposure. If you live in a region with heavy road salt, the second bearing may fail sooner than the first.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I drive on a bad wheel bearing?

You can drive short distances, but not long ones. A failing bearing can seize or lock up the wheel without warning, especially at highway speeds. If the noise is loud and grinding, have it replaced within a few days. If it is a quiet hum, you have more time, but do not ignore it.

Do I have to replace both front bearings at once?

No, but many mechanics recommend it. If one bearing is worn out, the other is likely close behind. Replacing both at once saves you the labor cost of a second job in six months. If only one is clearly bad, you can replace just that one and monitor the other.

What is the difference between OEM and aftermarket bearings?

OEM Subaru bearings are made to factory specs and usually last longer. Aftermarket bearings from brands like Timken or SKF are cheaper and generally reliable, but may not last quite as long. For a 2013 Crosstrek, either will work fine — the choice is mainly cost versus longevity.

How do I know if I torqued the axle nut correctly?

Use a torque wrench set to 145 foot-pounds. Tighten the nut slowly until the wrench clicks or beeps, indicating you have reached the correct torque. Do not over-tighten — this can damage the bearing. If you do not have a torque wrench, a shop can do this step for $20 to $30.

Will a bad wheel bearing affect my alignment?

Not directly, but a very worn bearing can cause the wheel to move slightly, which may throw off the alignment. After replacing the bearing, have the alignment checked if the vehicle pulls to one side or the steering feels off.