A bill of sale for an as-is car sale is a written record that you sold the vehicle in its current condition, with no promises about its mechanical state or history

When you sell a car as-is, you are telling the buyer that you make no guarantees about how it runs, what repairs it needs, or what problems it might have. A bill of sale documents this transaction and protects you both. It is not a legal contract that forces either party to do anything — it is a receipt that proves the sale happened, who owned it before, who owns it now, and that the buyer accepted the car in whatever condition it was in on the day of sale.

The as-is language matters because it shifts responsibility. Once the buyer signs, they cannot come back and claim you hid a mechanical problem or owe them money for repairs. Without that language in writing, a buyer in some states can argue they were misled, even if you said nothing false.

Key Takeaways

  • An as-is bill of sale must state clearly that the buyer accepts the vehicle in its present condition with no warranties or guarantees from the seller.
  • Include the vehicle identification number (VIN), odometer reading, sale price, and the date of sale so there is no dispute about which car was sold or when.
  • Both the seller and buyer must sign and print their names; some states also require a witness signature, so check your state's requirements before the sale.
  • Keep a copy for your records and give the buyer a copy to present when they register the vehicle or explore for a title in their name.

What information must go on the bill of sale

Start with the vehicle itself. Write the full vehicle identification number (VIN) — the 17-character code on the dashboard or door jamb — not just the make and model. Include the year, make, model, and color. Write the odometer reading on the day of sale. If the odometer does not work, write "odometer not functional" rather than leaving it blank; this prevents later claims that you rolled back the mileage.

Next, identify both parties. Write the seller's full legal name, address, and phone number. Write the buyer's full legal name, address, and phone number. Use the names that appear on your driver's license and the buyer's driver's license — not nicknames or shortened versions.

State the sale price in dollars. Write it both as a number ($2,500) and spelled out (Two thousand five hundred dollars) so there is no ambiguity. If the buyer is paying in cash, write "cash." If they are paying by check, note the check number. If they are assuming a loan or paying part cash and part trade-in, describe that arrangement clearly.

Add the date of sale. Use month, day, and year. This date matters because it marks when ownership transferred and when the buyer's responsibility for the vehicle began.

The as-is language that protects you

The core protection is a statement that the buyer accepts the vehicle as-is. A standard version reads: "The buyer acknowledges that this vehicle is sold as-is, with no warranties, express or implied, regarding its mechanical condition, fitness for a particular purpose, or freedom from defects. The seller makes no representations about the vehicle's history, prior accidents, or repairs."

Some states have specific as-is language required by law. Check your state's Department of Motor Vehicles website or your state's bill of sale form — many states provide an official template. Using the state's exact language is safer than writing your own, because it has been tested in court.

If the buyer asked you about a specific problem — "Does the transmission work?" — and you said yes, do not write as-is and hope it protects you. The buyer can argue that your spoken promise overrides the written as-is clause. If you are unsure about a mechanical issue, say so in writing on the bill of sale: "Seller states transmission has not been tested and condition is unknown."

Signature requirements and witness rules

Both you and the buyer must sign the bill of sale and print your names below your signatures. Sign in blue or black ink — not pencil. Date your signature.

Some states require a witness to sign as well. The witness must be present when you and the buyer sign, and they must be someone with no financial stake in the sale — not a family member of either party and not someone who benefits if the sale goes through or falls apart. A notary public counts as a valid witness in all states. Some states accept any adult; others require the witness to be a notary or to provide their driver's license number.

Check your state's DMV website before the sale to learn whether a witness is required and, if so, what qualifies. If your state requires a notary and you do not have one present, the bill of sale may not be accepted when the buyer tries to register the vehicle.

How to handle odometer and mileage discrepancies

Write the odometer reading as it appears on the dashboard on the day of sale. If the odometer shows 87,432 miles, write exactly that. Do not round or estimate.

If the odometer is broken or does not work, write "Odometer not functional" or "Odometer inoperative" in that field. This is important because federal law prohibits selling a car with a known broken odometer without disclosing it. Writing it on the bill of sale proves you disclosed the problem.

If you suspect the odometer has been rolled back — the mileage seems too low for the car's age — you can note that on the bill of sale: "Seller has reason to believe the odometer does not reflect actual mileage." This protects you if the buyer later discovers the true mileage and tries to claim you committed fraud. You have a written record that you flagged the concern.

Title transfer and what happens after the sale

The bill of sale is not the title itself. The title is a separate document issued by your state's DMV that proves legal ownership. You will still need to sign the back of the title or complete a title transfer form, depending on your state. Some states require you to submit the signed title to the DMV; others let the buyer handle that step.

Give the buyer a signed copy of the bill of sale and a copy of the title (or the signed title transfer form). The buyer will need both when they register the vehicle in their name. Keep a copy for yourself for at least three years in case a dispute arises later.

If the buyer does not register the vehicle promptly and it is involved in an accident or crime, you could be contacted. Having a signed bill of sale with the buyer's name and signature proves you transferred ownership and responsibility to them on a specific date.

Common mistakes to avoid on a bill of sale

Do not leave blanks. Every field should be filled in or marked "N/A" or "not applicable." A blank field invites the buyer to fill it in later with information you did not agree to.

Do not use white-out or heavy scratching to correct errors. If you make a mistake, cross it out with a single line, write the correction above it, and both you and the buyer should initial and date the correction. This shows the change was intentional and agreed to, not added later.

Do not accept a bill of sale that says the price is $0 or "gift" unless that is genuinely what happened. Some buyers ask sellers to write a low price to reduce sales tax or registration fees. This is tax fraud in most states, and you can be held liable if the state audits the transaction.

Do not sign a bill of sale that has blank spaces for the buyer to fill in later. Sign only a complete bill of sale with all information filled in and agreed to by both parties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a bill of sale if I am trading the car in at a dealership?

No. The dealership will handle the paperwork and title transfer as part of the trade-in process. A bill of sale is for private sales between individuals. If you are selling to a dealer, they will provide their own forms.

What if the buyer wants to pay me later instead of on the day of sale?

You can note a payment plan on the bill of sale — for example, "$5,000 due on [date], $5,000 due on [date]" — but this turns the bill of sale into a promissory note, and you lose some legal protection. For a private sale, it is safer to wait until you have the full payment in hand before signing the bill of sale and handing over the keys and title.

Can I sell a car as-is if it has a lien on it?

You can sell it, but the buyer needs to know a lender still owns it until the loan is paid off. Write on the bill of sale: "Vehicle is subject to a lien held by [lender name]. Seller will pay off lien at closing." The buyer should not take possession until the lien is released and the title is clear.

Is a bill of sale the same as a title?

No. A bill of sale is a receipt showing the sale happened. A title is the legal document proving ownership. You need both — the bill of sale proves the transaction occurred, and the title transfer proves who owns the vehicle now. The buyer cannot register the car with only a bill of sale.

What if I lose my copy of the bill of sale after the sale?

Ask the buyer for a copy. If you cannot reach them, the loss does not erase the sale, but you lose your written proof of when it happened and what was agreed to. This is why keeping a copy in a safe place for several years matters — it protects you if a dispute arises later.