719 Automotive Group is a Colorado Springs dealership network with multiple locations
719 Automotive Group operates several dealership locations across Colorado Springs, Colorado, under the 719 area code. The group sells used vehicles and operates service departments. Like any dealership, it functions as a for-profit business — the salespeople work on commission, the finance office makes money on loan terms and add-ons, and the service department charges for repairs and maintenance.
Understanding how a dealership makes money matters because it shapes what you encounter when you walk in. A salesperson's paycheck depends on the sale price and the financing deal they close, not on whether you get a good deal. The finance office profits when you buy extended warranties, gap insurance, or paint protection plans. The service department profits when you return for repairs. None of this makes 719 Automotive Group unusual — it describes how car dealerships work — but it means you should approach the transaction with your own research and limits in mind.
Key Takeaways
- 719 Automotive Group operates multiple used-car dealership locations in Colorado Springs and makes money through sales commissions, financing add-ons, and service department work.
- Before visiting any dealership, research the specific vehicle's market value using independent sources like Kelley Blue Book or NADA Guides so you know what a fair price looks like.
- The finance office will present optional add-ons like extended warranties and gap insurance — these are profitable for the dealership and optional for you, so decide in advance whether you want them.
- Test-drive the vehicle on varied roads, have a pre-purchase inspection done by an independent mechanic before you commit, and never let a salesperson rush you into a decision.
- Read every document before signing, especially the Buyer's Guide (required by the Federal Trade Commission) and the finance contract, because these spell out what you are actually buying and what recourse you have.
How to research a vehicle's actual market value
Before you step onto the lot, look up the specific vehicle on Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com) and NADA Guides (nadaguides.com). Enter the exact year, make, model, mileage, and condition. Both sites will show you a range — typically a low, mid-range, and high estimate. The low end assumes the vehicle needs work or has higher mileage; the high end assumes excellent condition and lower miles. A dealership price that sits above the high estimate is a starting point for negotiation, not a fair price.
Check local listings on Autotrader and Facebook Marketplace to see what similar vehicles are selling for in your area right now. Prices vary by region, season, and current inventory. If you see five similar vehicles priced between $12,000 and $13,500, and the dealership is asking $15,000, you have concrete data to reference during negotiation. Write down the URLs or take screenshots — you may need them.
Look at the vehicle's history using Carfax or AutoCheck. These reports show accident history, title status, service records, and odometer readings. A clean title and consistent service history are worth more than a vehicle with hidden damage or a salvage title. The dealership should provide this report; if they resist, that is a red flag.
What happens during the sales process and where dealerships profit
The salesperson will quote you a price. This is not the final price — it is an opening position. Dealerships expect negotiation. Your research gives you leverage: you know what the vehicle is worth, and you can walk away. A salesperson who refuses to negotiate or becomes aggressive is signaling that you should leave and shop elsewhere.
Once you agree on a price, you will be sent to the finance office. This is where the dealership makes additional profit. The finance manager will present add-ons: extended warranties, gap insurance, paint protection, wheel and tire coverage, maintenance plans. Each one costs extra and each one is optional. Gap insurance (which covers the difference between what you owe and what the car is worth if it is totaled) can make sense if you are financing most of the purchase. Extended warranties are profitable for the dealership and rarely worth the cost — your vehicle's manufacturer warranty already covers major failures, and independent repair shops often cost less than warranty claims. Decide in advance what you will and will not buy, and stick to that decision.
The finance contract will show the final price, the interest rate, the loan term, and any add-ons. Read it line by line. If the numbers do not match what you agreed to with the salesperson, stop and ask for clarification. Dealerships sometimes use a practice called "yo-yo sales" — you drive home, then they call saying the financing fell through and you need to come back and sign new paperwork at a higher rate. This is legal in some states and illegal in others. Colorado allows it. If this happens, you have the right to refuse and return the vehicle.
The Federal Trade Commission's Buyer's Guide and what it tells you
Every used vehicle sold by a dealership must have a Buyer's Guide posted in the window or provided before sale. This is a Federal Trade Commission requirement. The guide states whether the vehicle is sold "as-is" or with a warranty, and it explains your rights. Read it carefully — it is not decoration.
If the guide says "as-is," the dealership is not responsible for repairs after you buy the vehicle. If it says "warranty," the guide will specify what is covered and for how long. Some dealerships offer 30-day powertrain warranties; others offer nothing. The warranty terms are negotiable — you can ask for a longer warranty or a broader one (covering more systems) as part of your deal. The dealership can refuse, but you can walk away.
Colorado law gives you a limited right to return a vehicle within three days if you discover a serious defect, but this applies only if the dealership did not disclose the defect. The burden is on you to prove the defect existed at the time of sale. This is why the pre-purchase inspection by an independent mechanic matters — it creates a record of the vehicle's condition before you own it.
Getting an independent pre-purchase inspection
Before you sign anything, take the vehicle to an independent mechanic — not the dealership's service department — for a pre-purchase inspection. This typically costs $100 to $200 and is the best money you will spend. The mechanic will check the engine, transmission, brakes, suspension, electrical system, and body for rust or damage. They will run a diagnostic scan to see if any warning lights are stored in the computer. They will give you a written report.
If the inspection finds serious problems — a transmission that is slipping, a engine that is burning oil, frame damage — you have leverage to renegotiate the price or walk away. If the dealership refuses to let you take the vehicle for inspection, that is a strong signal not to buy from them. A reputable dealership expects this step.
Schedule the inspection before you commit to financing. Some dealerships will let you take the vehicle for inspection as part of the test drive; others require you to buy it first. If they require purchase first, do not agree. You need the inspection data before you sign.
What to check during the test drive
Test-drive the vehicle on varied roads: highway, city streets, and rough pavement. Listen for unusual noises — grinding, knocking, or rattling. Feel for vibration in the steering wheel or brake pedal. Check that all controls work: windows, locks, wipers, lights, air conditioning, heating. Try the brakes at different speeds. Accelerate smoothly and listen to the engine.
Drive it long enough to let the engine warm up fully. Many problems only show up once the engine reaches operating temperature. If the check-engine light comes on during the test drive, ask the dealership what triggered it. They should have run a diagnostic scan before putting the vehicle on the lot.
If anything feels wrong — a hesitation when accelerating, a soft brake pedal, a grinding noise — do not ignore it. Ask the salesperson about it directly. If they brush it off or claim not to know what you are talking about, that is a reason to keep looking.
Negotiating price and terms
Start with your research. Tell the salesperson you know the market value and show them your data. A reasonable opening offer is 5 to 10 percent below the asking price. The salesperson will counter. You will go back and forth. This is normal. The goal is to land somewhere between your research low and the asking price.
Negotiate the total deal, not just the price. If the dealership will not move much on price, ask for a longer warranty, a free oil change package, or a lower interest rate. If you are financing, even a 0.5 percent difference in interest rate saves you hundreds of dollars over the loan term.
Never let a salesperson rush you. If they say "this deal is only good today" or "another customer is interested," that is a sales tactic. Good deals exist regularly. If you feel pressured, leave. You can always come back, and the dealership will likely call you with a better offer.
Understanding financing options
You can finance through the dealership or bring your own financing from a bank or credit union. If you bring your own financing, the dealership cannot change the terms — you own the loan. If you finance through the dealership, the finance manager will shop your process to multiple lenders and present you with the best rate they found. The dealership makes money on the spread between what the lender approves and what they charge you.
Get pre-approved for a loan before you shop. This tells you what interest rate you may have access to for and what your monthly payment will be. It also gives you a firm budget and removes the dealership's ability to surprise you with a higher rate later. Many credit unions and banks offer pre-approval online in minutes.
Compare the dealership's rate to your pre-approval rate. If the dealership's rate is higher, ask why. Sometimes they can beat your rate; sometimes they cannot. If they cannot, use your pre-approval and finance through your own lender.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I negotiate the price at 719 Automotive Group?
Yes. Dealership prices are starting positions, not final prices. Research the vehicle's market value beforehand and make a reasonable offer. The salesperson will counter, and you will negotiate from there. If a dealership refuses to negotiate, shop elsewhere.
What should I do if the vehicle has a check-engine light?
Ask the dealership what triggered it. They should have run a diagnostic scan before selling the vehicle. If they have not, request one before you commit. A check-engine light can mean anything from a loose gas cap to a serious engine problem — you need the diagnostic data to know.
Is gap insurance worth buying?
Gap insurance covers the difference between what you owe on a loan and what the vehicle is worth if it is totaled. It makes sense if you are financing most of the purchase and putting down less than 20 percent. If you are paying cash or putting down a large amount, you do not need it.
What does "as-is" mean on the Buyer's Guide?
It means the dealership is not responsible for repairs after you buy the vehicle. You own any problems that show up. This is why the pre-purchase inspection is critical — it documents the vehicle's condition before you own it, giving you recourse if a serious defect was hidden.
What if I discover a problem after I drive the vehicle home?
Colorado law gives you three days to return a vehicle if you discover a serious defect that was not disclosed. You must prove the defect existed at the time of sale. The pre-purchase inspection report helps establish this. Contact the dealership when ready and bring documentation of the problem.