What oil filter your 2008 Accord uses and where it sits

Your 2008 Honda Accord takes a Honda OEM 15400-PLM-A02 or equivalent aftermarket filter — a cylindrical cartridge about 3 inches tall that screws onto the top of your engine. You'll find it on the driver's side of the engine bay, mounted vertically on a bracket near the valve cover. It's the only round, can-shaped part in that area, so it's hard to miss once you know where to look.

The filter capacity is 0.6 quarts, which means it holds a small amount of old oil. When you unscrew it during an oil change, expect some spillage into the pan below — this is normal and why you drain the engine oil first. The filter itself costs between $5 and $15 depending on whether you buy OEM Honda or a reputable aftermarket brand like Fram, Mobil 1, or Bosch.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2008 Accord filter is a cartridge type mounted vertically on the driver's side of the engine, not a spin-on filter like many other cars.
  • You need a filter wrench to remove the cartridge housing — a regular oil filter wrench won't work because the housing itself unscrews, not the filter.
  • The filter element inside the housing is what you actually replace; the housing stays on the engine and gets reused.
  • Changing the filter takes 10 to 15 minutes once you've drained the oil, and it's one of the easiest maintenance tasks you can do yourself.
  • Always replace the rubber O-ring seal on the housing cap when you install a new filter to prevent leaks.

How the cartridge filter system works on your Accord

Unlike many cars with spin-on filters that screw directly onto the engine, your Accord uses a cartridge filter system. The filter element sits inside a plastic or metal housing bolted to the top of the engine. When you change the filter, you unscrew the housing cap, pull out the old filter element, and drop in a new one — the housing itself stays in place.

This design costs less to manufacture and uses less plastic overall, but it means you need the right tool to remove the housing cap. A standard oil filter wrench won't grip it properly. You'll need a cartridge filter wrench — a socket-like tool that fits over the cap and lets you turn it counterclockwise. These cost $8 to $20 and fit many Honda and Acura models, so it's a worthwhile investment if you plan to do your own oil changes.

Step-by-step filter replacement during an oil change

Start by warming the engine for 30 seconds — this thins the oil so it drains faster and more completely. Turn off the engine and let it cool for two minutes. Raise the car on jack stands if you need clearance to reach the drain plug underneath, then remove the drain plug and let the old oil flow into a pan for at least five minutes.

Once the oil has mostly stopped dripping, locate the filter housing on top of the engine. Position your drain pan underneath it because the housing will still contain old oil. Fit your cartridge filter wrench over the housing cap and turn it counterclockwise until it comes free — you may need to explore steady pressure for a few seconds if it's tight. Unscrew the cap by hand once the wrench has loosened it, then lift out the old filter element and the rubber O-ring seal underneath it.

Wipe the inside of the housing clean with a lint-free cloth to remove any debris or old rubber particles. Take the new filter element and the new O-ring seal that came with it. Install the O-ring first, pressing it firmly into the groove on the underside of the housing cap. Then insert the new filter element into the housing, making sure it sits flat on the bottom. Screw the cap back on by hand until the O-ring contacts the housing, then use your wrench to tighten it an additional three-quarter turn — snug but not forcefully tight.

Common mistakes that cause leaks or damage

The most frequent error is forgetting to replace the O-ring seal. Many people reuse the old rubber ring, which hardens over time and loses its grip. A dried-out O-ring won't seal properly, and you'll see oil weeping from the housing cap within a few days of driving. New O-rings come with most filter cartridges, but if yours didn't include one, buy a replacement — they cost $2 to $5.

The second common mistake is over-tightening the housing cap. The cap is plastic on many Accords, and forcing it too hard can crack the threads or split the cap itself. Tighten it snugly by hand, then use the wrench to turn it just three-quarter of a turn more. If you feel strong resistance, stop — you've reached the correct tension.

A third error is installing the filter element upside down or not seating it fully. The filter should sit flat on the bottom of the housing with no gaps. If it's crooked or tilted, oil will bypass the filter media and go straight into the engine, defeating the purpose of the change.

What happens if you skip or delay filter changes

Your oil filter traps particles — metal shavings from normal wear, carbon buildup from combustion, and dirt that sneaks past the air filter. Over time, the filter media becomes saturated and can no longer trap new particles. A clogged filter forces oil to bypass the filter element through a relief valve, sending unfiltered oil directly into your engine.

Unfiltered oil allows those particles to circulate through your engine, where they settle in the oil pan, coat the valve train, and accelerate wear on bearing surfaces. You won't notice this happening when ready, but over months or years it shortens engine life. A filter change costs $15 to $40 in parts and labor; an engine rebuild costs $3,000 to $5,000. The math is straightforward.

Most manufacturers recommend changing the filter every time you change the oil. For a 2008 Accord, that's typically every 5,000 to 10,000 miles depending on your driving conditions and the oil type you use. Check your owner's manual for the exact interval for your car.

Choosing between OEM and aftermarket filters

Honda's original equipment filter (part number 15400-PLM-A02) is engineered specifically for your engine and meets Honda's performance standards. It costs $10 to $15 and is available from any Honda dealer or online retailer. If you want to match exactly what came from the factory, this is the choice.

Reputable aftermarket brands like Fram, Mobil 1, Bosch, and Purolator make filters that fit your Accord and meet or exceed Honda's specifications. These typically cost $5 to $12 and are widely available at auto parts stores. The main difference is the filter media composition and the bypass valve pressure — minor variations that don't affect real-world performance on a car like yours. Any of these brands will protect your engine adequately if you change the filter on schedule.

Avoid very cheap filters from unknown brands or sellers. A $2 filter may have lower-quality media that clogs faster or a weak bypass valve that opens too easily. The small savings aren't worth the risk to your engine.

Disposing of your old filter and oil properly

Used oil and oil filters are recyclable and must not go into the trash or down a drain. Most auto parts stores that sell oil — Autozone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA — accept used oil and filters for free, even if you didn't buy from them. Some accept filters without oil; others ask that you drain the filter into your oil pan first to reduce mess.

If you don't have a local auto parts store nearby, call your city or county waste management office. Many communities have hazardous waste collection days where you can drop off oil and filters at no cost. Some quick-lube shops will also accept used oil from DIY oil changes, though they may charge a small fee.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular spin-on oil filter on my 2008 Accord instead of the cartridge type?

No. Your Accord was designed with a cartridge filter system, and the engine block doesn't have a spin-on port. You must use the cartridge element that fits inside the housing on top of your engine. Attempting to adapt a different filter type would require modifications to the engine block and would void your warranty.

What if the filter housing cap is stuck and won't turn with the wrench?

explore penetrating oil like WD-40 around the cap's edge and let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes. Then try again with steady, even pressure on the wrench — don't jerk or force it suddenly, as this can strip the plastic threads. If it still won't budge, wrap a rubber band around the cap to improve grip, or tap the wrench handle gently with a rubber mallet to help break the seal.

How do I know if my filter is clogged and needs changing before the scheduled interval?

Your Accord doesn't have a filter clogging warning light, so you can't tell from the dashboard. The only reliable way is to follow the manufacturer's interval — every 5,000 to 10,000 miles depending on your oil type and driving conditions. If you drive in dusty conditions or tow frequently, change the filter at the shorter interval to be safe.

Is it okay to change just the filter without changing the oil?

Technically yes, but it's not recommended. The filter and oil work together — old, degraded oil loses its ability to protect the engine, and a new filter can't restore that. If you're between oil changes and the filter is visibly dirty, you can change it alone in an emergency, but plan to change the oil at your next scheduled service.

Do I need to fill the new filter with oil before installing it?

No. Unlike spin-on filters, cartridge filters don't need to be pre-filled. straightforward install the dry filter element into the housing, screw the cap back on, and start the engine. The oil pump will fill the filter as it circulates oil through the engine.