Rear light replacement is usually a 10-minute job you can do in your driveway

Most rear light failures are straightforward bulb replacements that cost $5 to $20 and take no special tools. You open the trunk or hatchback, unscrew the fixture from inside, pull out the old bulb, and push in a new one. The whole process takes longer to find a parking spot than to do the work. If the bulb is good but the light still does not work, the issue is usually a burned-out socket or wiring problem — that is when you move to replacing the entire light assembly, which costs more but follows the same basic steps.

Key Takeaways

  • Bulb-only replacements cost $5 to $20 and require no tools; access the fixture from inside the trunk or hatchback and twist the bulb counterclockwise to remove it.
  • Check your owner's manual or the fixture itself to find the correct bulb type — common sizes are 1157, 7440, or 3157, and using the wrong one will not fit or work.
  • If the new bulb does not light, the socket or wiring is likely damaged; replacing the entire light assembly costs $50 to $300 depending on the vehicle and whether you do it yourself or use a shop.
  • Rear light assemblies bolt on from inside the trunk in most vehicles, making the job accessible without lifting the car or removing wheels.

Locate the fixture and access it from inside the trunk

Open your trunk or hatchback and look at the inner wall where the rear light is mounted on the outside. You will see either a plastic panel or the back of the light assembly itself. If there is a plastic trim panel, it may pop out or unscrew — check for clips or small bolts. Once the panel is off or folded back, you will see the back of the light fixture with either a large plastic collar (the bulb socket) or bolts holding the entire assembly in place.

Some vehicles have the bulb socket accessible without removing anything — you straightforward reach in and twist. Others require you to unscrew one or two bolts that hold the assembly to the car body. Your owner's manual will show the exact layout for your model. If you do not have the manual, search "[your year, make, model] rear light replacement" and you will find a photo guide or video showing the exact steps for your car.

Remove and replace the bulb

Once you can see the bulb socket, grip the plastic collar and twist it counterclockwise — usually a quarter turn is enough to release it. The socket will slide out, and the bulb will come with it. The bulb itself twists into the socket; twist it counterclockwise and it will pop free. Do not pull straight out, as this can break the socket.

Before installing the new bulb, check the part number printed on the old one or look it up in your owner's manual. Common rear light bulbs are 1157 (two-filament, for brake and running light), 7440 (single-filament), or 3157 (also two-filament). Buy the exact type — a bulb that does not match the socket will not fit or will fall out while driving. Push the new bulb straight in and twist clockwise until it stops. Do not force it. Slide the socket back into the fixture, twist clockwise until snug, and test the light before closing the trunk.

Replace the entire light assembly if the bulb is not the problem

If you installed a new bulb and the light still does not work, the socket or wiring is damaged. At this point, replacing the entire assembly is usually cheaper and faster than troubleshooting the electrical connection. Light assemblies cost $50 to $300 depending on whether you buy an OEM (original manufacturer) part or an aftermarket one, and whether your vehicle is common or rare.

To remove the assembly, locate the bolts holding it to the car body from inside the trunk — usually two or three bolts. Unscrew them completely and gently pull the assembly toward the inside of the trunk. You will see a connector plug on the back; squeeze or unclip it to disconnect the wiring. Plug the new assembly in, line up the bolt holes, and screw it back in hand-tight, then snug with a wrench. Do not over-tighten, as this can crack the plastic housing.

Choosing between OEM and aftermarket assemblies

OEM parts come directly from the vehicle manufacturer and match the original exactly. They cost more — often $150 to $300 — but fit perfectly and carry a warranty. Aftermarket parts are made by third-party suppliers and cost $50 to $150. They fit most vehicles well, but quality varies; a cheap aftermarket assembly may have a loose lens or poor seal that lets water in.

For most drivers, an aftermarket assembly from a known brand like Dorman or TYC is a solid middle ground. If your vehicle is older or rare, OEM may be your only option. Check reviews on the specific part before buying — a few minutes reading what other owners experienced will tell you whether a particular aftermarket assembly is reliable or prone to failure.

When to take the car to a shop instead

If the light assembly is fused to the bumper or requires bumper removal, a shop is worth the cost. Some vehicles, especially luxury models, have rear lights integrated into the bumper structure, and removing them means removing the bumper — a job that takes an hour and requires alignment afterward. A shop will charge $100 to $300 in labor, but you avoid the risk of misaligning the bumper or damaging clips.

Also consider a shop if you are not comfortable working with electrical connectors or if the bolts are seized and will not turn. Forcing a stuck bolt can strip it or break the plastic housing, turning a $100 repair into a $500 one. A shop has the right tools and experience to handle these situations without damage.

Testing and troubleshooting after replacement

After installing a new bulb or assembly, test both the brake light and running light before driving. Have someone press the brake pedal while you watch the rear light — it should glow brighter than when the lights are just on. If only the brake light works or only the running light works, you may have installed a single-filament bulb in a two-filament socket, or vice versa. Check the part number and swap it for the correct type.

If the new assembly does not work at all, the problem is likely a blown fuse or a broken wire in the harness. Check your owner's manual for the fuse location and look for a fuse labeled "rear light" or "tail light." If the fuse is blown (the wire inside is broken), replace it with one of the same amperage. If the fuse is good, the wiring harness may be damaged, and you will need a shop to trace and repair it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I drive with one rear light out?

No — it is illegal in all states and unsafe. A missing brake light means drivers behind you cannot see when you are slowing down. Replace it before driving, or have it towed to a shop. The repair takes 10 minutes and costs less than a traffic ticket.

What is the difference between a 1157 and a 7440 bulb?

A 1157 has two filaments (one for running light, one for brake light) and is used in most vehicles. A 7440 has one filament and is used in vehicles where the running and brake functions are in separate bulbs. Using the wrong type will not fit the socket. Check your owner's manual or the old bulb to see which you need.

Do I need to remove the bumper to replace a rear light?

Not usually. Most vehicles have bolts accessible from inside the trunk, so the assembly comes out without touching the bumper. Some luxury or sport models do require bumper removal — your owner's manual will show this. If you are unsure, search your vehicle model online before starting.

How much does a rear light assembly cost at a shop?

Labor is usually $50 to $150, and the part itself is $50 to $300 depending on whether it is OEM or aftermarket and how common your vehicle is. A full job at a shop typically runs $150 to $400. Doing it yourself costs only the part price if you have the tools and comfort level.

Why is my new bulb not working?

The most common reason is installing the wrong bulb type — check the part number on the old bulb and match it exactly. If the type is correct, the socket or wiring is damaged and the entire assembly needs replacement. If the new assembly also does not work, a blown fuse or broken wire in the harness is the problem, and you will need a shop to diagnose it.